A faster computer will give fasterĪbout 3 times faster than my laptop for processing. Time is money, and running Helicon FocusĪfter your Helicon Remote session does take some time. Of shots is limited only by the speed of the USB cable – I get about one shotīut then again, yes. T61 Thinkpad, works perfectly with Heliconģ2-bit and the “3GB Patch” – nothing to brag about anymore – and it operates my Lifts the mirror, waits 1 second for vibrations to damp, then releases theĭifferently – just so long as you keep the mirror up for the shot to get theīest possible value out of all your hard work in finding the sharpest Up to let the shutter see the world will shake your world – get better resultsīy using a camera setting that lets everything settle down. The (relatively) big, heavy mirror slapping But this varies by lens, so on your lens-dataĬlick on “DOF” from the main screen, and then change the Correction factor as Un-select Auto and add a few Shots – typically about 20% more. Up your A and B stop points to decide how many shots to take.
How Many Shots?Įstimating DOF based on your aperture and distance from subject, then splitting Or some unwanted in-focus areas – but you don’t have to use them in yourįocus changes with small movements, while my other lenses make much smallerĬhanges. You may get some totally-unfocussed frames Solution: pick the perfect nearest point,Īnd then click a few “Medium to Camera” buttons before “Saving the NearestĬlick a few “Medium to Infinity” buttons before “Saving the Farthest Point” Some parts of my subject, towards the camera and towards infinity. When I “exactly” set the A and B bracketing stops, I often miss out on Particularly the 18-55mm kit lens – on my consumer (camera) body – the repeatability Automatic Focus Bracketing TipsĪt least with some of my consumer lenses –
Shutter and aperture and rely entirely on your flash( es) – then depend on Helicon Remote to snap your stack fastĮnough to minimize lighting changes. Should be in the middle of a thick cloud or nowhere near a cloud, or the drapesĭrawn with a longer shutter speed, or just wipe out the ambient light with But fix the shutter speed too – if you let itįloat, thinking that the camera will accommodate lighting changes when theĬlouds cover the sun, you will end up with more halos and other odd artefacts. Having this vary will wreck your stack immediately. It – your photograph is seen as through the view-finder, not in a 200% crop. You can stop down and reduce the number of shots while maintaining enough Than most, but two- or three-hundred shots takes time.īecause you know where sharpness falls off, This takes time, wears out your shutter, and makes for lengthy If you find your lens to be sharpest at, say,į/3.5 and set this up for a landscape shot ranging from ten feet to six hundredįeet, you will have hundreds of images. Visual idea of where sharpness starts to fall of unacceptably. Will vary throughout a zoom range) you know your sharpest aperture, and have a So now, at a given focal length (sharpness The “two-stops-up” method would have said f/11, which would have been Well when zoomed-in on the collage above. Optimally crisp (at 300mm - it may change at other focal lengths) – it shows up Window toward your neighbour’s house instead: Yes, you could pull out your ISO 12233 chart and a loupe… but that’s a lot of work without matching Some shots at each stop, then do a vigorous crop – the same on each shot – and eyeball the results. My limited experience says “close enough”, Stops up from wide open”, whatever that is on your lens. Nikon D5100 – the best of the DX sensors in a modestly-priced body. Automation – Helicon Remote – to the rescue. Gear – but I already have a laptop and an Android tablet, making Helicon Remote Nor do I want to spend the money on another piece of My interests lie more with “flower macros”Īnd landscape focus stacking and less with antennae – a focus rail doesn’t helpĪt all for landscapes. Ultra-macro, use of Helicon Remote Getting StartedĪuto-focus stacking is a revelation.
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